An Ode to Air Conditioning

Culture shock is something that you have to adapt to when traversing the world and exploring new places. My trip in Russia is my first real experience with culture shock and the following are just a few of the things that I have experienced so far.

For starters, a lot of places do not have air conditioning, particularly apartments. You are probably thinking, well it is Russia and it is always cold, so why would they need air conditioning? Yes, in the winter it can be extremely cold. St. Petersburg averages about 19 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. However, in the summer it can be very very hot! This past week, the temperature has reached over 80 degrees each day, and it is bright and sunny the majority of the day (and night). So after exploring the city for a few hours out in the hot sun, all you want is to go inside, grab a cool drink, and relax in the air conditioning. Well, unless you go to a cafe or business, that is unlikely to happen. Apartments are cooled off with the breeze let in through windows. However, windows are nothing compared to air conditioning. At night, I do not sleep with blankets, and cool showers are preferable. Today, we rode a tour bus for an hour to our excursion (and then back), and there was practically no air conditioning.  It was rough at first, and we eventually got used to it, but we ran to shade as soon as we got off.  Air conditioning is a wonderful luxury that we have become accustomed to in America, and I must say that I do miss it. I am very grateful for such technology and that we have the means to comfort ourselves with it back in the States. Surprisingly, the coolest place I daily traverse is the metro. The fast trains create a strong breeze underneath the ground, and you can enjoy it either while waiting for a train or while riding to your destination.

The metro is another thing I am really experiencing for the first time. We do not have metros in Ohio, and I never took public transportation until I reached college. And the buses in Columbus are nothing compared to the crowds that form on St. Petersburg public transportation. The city has a plethora of options to get from one place to another, which is very nice, but the obstacle lies in figuring out the route you need. I take the metro daily, and I think it is the simplest form of transport in the city. The lines are colored and it is very easy to transfer between lines when you need to. However, I do not think I will ever get used to all the people, or the smell.  Nonetheless, the metro gets me to where I need to be, and it is the cheapest form of transport. Besides, of course, walking. When walking to my destination is a plausible option, I always take it. Walking has numerous benefits, if you have the time: you can see the city, you get exercise, and it is free. I mean, who would not want to take a pleasurable stroll through such a beautiful and historic city?

Crowds in Russia, are well crowds. However, Russians' personal space is a lot smaller than Americans' personal space. When waiting in line, or to cross the street, or to purchase something, or to get on the metro, Russians are inches a part. They will not let anyone take their spot, but are more than willing to get in front of someone else. I have had to get closer to people than I would normally prefer in order to keep my spot and move through the crowd. It takes some getting used to, and I constantly have to remind myself to get a little closer to the person in front of me, or I will single myself out as a foreigner and lose my place.

On a more exciting note, we went to Peterhof Palace today! It is a complex of gorgeous palaces and gardens located on the Gulf of Finland. Peter the Great was the first emperor to build on the property, and tsars added to it as reigns changed. The Peterhof Museum Complex boasts that it is one of the most popular museums in the whole world, and it was super busy today. We had a guided tour through part of the grounds and saw many of the famously beautiful fountains. The grounds were beautiful, but I wanted the history. So inside the Grand Palace my friend and I went. The rooms were extremely ornate, and it was very neat to see some of the rooms used by Russian monarchs, particularly Peter the Great. There was so much to see at Peterhof, that we only saw a small part of the complex, but what we saw was incredibly beautiful!

Grand Cascade at Peterhof

From Class to Choir

It is hard to believe that I have been in St. Petersburg for over a week now! I have experienced so much, yet there is so much, much more to see and learn.

How have I been passing my time you ask?

For starters, I have been able to successfully navigate the metro every single day so far, and let us pray that it continues that way. On top of that, I have begun to expand my Russian vocabulary, although it is mainly centered around food (hungry, full) and things around the city (like statue, garden, and, of course, palace).

Smolny Cathedral - our university

Our classes began on Thursday. We have four and a half hours of classes four days a week. The classes are taught in Russian and I was able to understand the majority of what was going on in each class. Our classes are only composed of program students, and we are divided into six groups of seven students based on skill level. We will form bonds very soon! Rest assured, I managed through the first two days. And I will definitely share any hilarious, intense, or eye-opening experiences I encounter during my studies.

I had Russian music culture for the first time on Friday.  Three of the groups were combined into one class, so there were more people than in our usual classes. But we soon learned that this was no ordinary class. Our teacher came in and gave the normal introductory speech. Then, unlike the rest of our professors, she did not go around the room and learn our names. Her reason: we are too big of a group to learn names, but a wonderful size for a choir. I figured the choir thing was just a music joke. Oh how was I wrong. It turns out that we really are a choir! We are like Cinderella. At 1:50 pm on Friday we magically turn into a little choir, but instead a beautiful gown and a dashing prince, we get folk songs and out of tune singing. She passed around music, we translated it, and she sang it to us. And then... And then, she told us we were going to sing, first boys and then girls. I have to admit, we all took it very seriously. Yes, we laughed a little at first, but after we got that two-part harmony down, we sounded pretty good. But do not think this means I will be singing old Russian folk songs for you when I get back!

Here is a video of the song we sang; we were not this cute, or energetic: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8i5f_F_JP8

Mini trip to Nevsky Prospect

After classes or excursions, my new приятели (preyateli) and I go on our own mini excursions. The word приятели is Russian for friend; however, the Russians have three words for "friend" and this one lies in between acquaintance and besties.  Anyway, we have surprisingly seen a lot, but it has failed to make any significant dent in the places we want to visit. Instead of getting smaller, our must-see lists just get bigger! We have walked all over the place, successfully ordered multiple meals in Russian, tried new things, and met new people. The excitement rarely stops, and I am grateful for a little bit of relaxation in the evening. We will see how much time I have for adventures once classes kick into full gear, but I will not leave St. Petersburg without getting the most out of every experience and opportunity!

72 Years Later: 22 June

Before you begin reading, I invite you to click on the link and listen to the following youtube clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEt_0r1JEHc

Today is a very important day in Russia's history.  On June 22, 1941, Nazi Germany invaded the Soviet Union.  Russians commemorate this day every year with wreath lying ceremonies and by placing flowers at grave sites.  To coincide with the anniversary of the start of the war for the Soviet Union, we took a bus tour on the Blockade of Leningrad.

In order to describe the impact of the tour and the immense significance of this day, I will provide everyone with a mini lesson in Russian history. Get excited!

St. Petersburg was renamed Leningrad in 1924 after the death of Lenin, and the name remained until 1991.  Russians refer to World War II as the Great Patriotic War because of the casualties and sacrifices that the country suffered.

The siege of the city began on September 8, 1941.  In between the start of the war and the beginning of the siege, some people were evacuated. To preserve the history and culture of the city, many of the artifacts were either evacuated or buried.  The statue of Peter the Great was covered with sand and wood; statues in the Summer Garden were buried in the ground; the spire of the Peter and Paul Fortress was covered with a camouflage.  In less than two months, staff and volunteers at the Hermitage packed up over a million works of art and secretly shipped the items out of the city. There lies some irony in the story of the Hermitage items.  During the war, the items were safely stored in Ekaterinburg.  Ekaterinburg is the infamous city where the last tsar of Russia and his family were executed.  Some of the items were even stored in the same house in which the family was killed.  Irony: in order to survive, the treasures of the Romanov family were taken to the exact same spot where the dynasty was destroyed.  So as the history and culture of Leningrad was being evacuated and protected, refugees from the east were pouring into the city. And then the siege began.

The Blockade of Leningrad lasted 872 days.  The city invoked a ration system, pets were used as food, leather was boiled, and some citizens eventually took to cannibalism.  At its lowest point, one ration consisted of a 5 ounce piece of bread. But this bread was not ordinary bread, for over half of it consisted of other substances like sawdust or glue.  It is estimated that about 632,000 people died during the blockade.

The Nazis bombarded the city with shells. One in seven buildings were destroyed.  Hitler ordered all landmarks and cultural buildings to be destroyed, because they would weaken the people's spirit.  His goal was to wipe out the entire city through bombardment and starvation.

However, Leningrad survived the siege and the people never surrendered. The army held the city and no foreign forces ever made it inside.  On the tour, we saw the Astoria Hotel, where Hitler had dinner invitations printed for in order to celebrate the invasion of Leningrad. Fortunately, his party never took place.

The final stop on our bus tour was the Piskariovskoye Memorial Cemetery.  It serves as a reminder of the scale of the tragedy that took place in Leningrad during the Great Patriotic War.  There are roughly 420,000 civilians and 70,000 soldiers buried in the 186 mass graves located at the cemetery.  In addition, there is an eternal flame to remember those who lost their lives.  It is a somber experience to stand in the cemetery and gaze around you at the expansive grounds. However, the cemetery was very peaceful.  Flowers were laid all over and Shostakovich's Symphony No. 7 was playing throughout the fields.  A part of his symphony was written in Leningrad during the siege and is dedicated to the city of Leningrad.

Eternal Flame and small part of the grounds

Sometimes it is hard to remember that we are not the only ones with a destructive past, that we are not the only ones who battle through wars and sacrifice our people.  The Soviet Union suffered the greatest number of casualties during the Great Patriotic War, roughly 23 million compared with the 420,000 casualties suffered by the United States.  The majority of WWII was fought on the Eastern Front, in and near Soviet cities.  As Americans, we have been fortunate to not have experienced numerous wars on our shores, and it is easy to forget how much destruction comes when the home front becomes the front lines.

Some of the wreaths from the ceremony held earlier in the day

Thank you for bearing through my not so mini history lesson, but I believe it is an important part of history to know and remember.  War does not happen just to those who go into battle, it is a tragedy that affects everyone.  And these tragedies and sacrifices we should never forget.

Stay Up Late & Don't Plan

Five days down, 50 some to go. And let me tell you, the adventure and confusion just keeps on coming!

Now, I am not one to stay up into the wee hours of the morning. I admit, I like my sleep. Nonetheless, during my 5 days here I have gotten very little sleep, and I have found that it has been worth it, mostly. Yes, the first few days the lack of sleep was brought on by everyone's best friend jet lag, but last night no jet lag was required. Last night was my first real encounter with the White Nights (my previous encounters had been tightly closing the curtains over my windows in order to attempt to sleep). I met my host "mom," Anna, and I use quotations around the word mom because she is 28 and more like an older sister, and she showed me where I will be living for the next eight weeks. Then, she took me out to show me the area. Many shops, a park, metro stations, and a supermarket. The supermarket had its similarities to American supermarkets, however there was so much food! Actually, there was a lot of different cake and sweet options, all of which looked pretty scrumptious. We entered the store 15 minutes to closing and did not leave until 15 minutes after closing. But hey, we were not the last ones in there. My new host "mom" kept me out until midnight, now I do not see a little babushka walking me around her apartment late at night. It was amazing to be outside at midnight and feel like it was 6 or 7 in the evening. It is so weird and confusing to the senses, but a feeling that is definitely worth experiencing. I am sure that I will be staying up late and experiencing the White Nights several more times to come.

Today was our first day at our gorgeous university.  And it was our first wake up call as to why we are actually here: to study the Russian language. There is a Russian-only policy that we are slowly trying to accustom ourselves to. It is a bit strange and awkward, but I have found that working through sentences with others is a great way to learn and practice. Also, wandering around the city reading random things and applying new words to actual objects is totally helpful. Example: today I ordered blini with strawberries, now know the word for strawberry. In addition, I ordered a hedgehog. It was a little chocolate dessert, so do not worry. But I am sure I will not forget the word for hedgehog anytime soon.  All in all, I am learning how to get food, a key ingredient to survival!

ёжик - hedgehog

After our nerve racking placement test that had us questioning our abilities, some of my new found friends and I decided to traverse the city. What started off as lunch ended up an all out sight seeing adventure around part of the city. None of this was planned, all we had was a map and a lot of free time. The result? An amazing adventure that I am not soon to forget! We stumbled upon the Anchikov Palace, where inside was beautifully detailed drawings of children stories. Then came the Catherine Gardens and the statue of Catherine the Great (my favorite tsarina). Then, the Singer House. I learned that it was the headquarters for the Singer Company (the one that makes sewing machines) at the turn of the twentieth century. With a bald eagle on top, it was an awesome building to see in the middle of Russia. We finished our excursion with the Kazan Cathedral. On the outside, it looks more like a court house than a cathedral, but inside there is no mistake. The icons were gorgeous and the whole place was very solemn and spiritual. Gold was everywhere, very decorative. However, what I enjoyed most was the line of people waiting to kiss the icon of the Virgin Mary. There was a holy reverence in the cathedral that I had much respect for. When we exited the cathedral, the sun was shining and we were exhausted. We had no plan but to find food, and by the end we had found much much more!

Anchikov Palace

Bus Tours are Just a Tease

Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood

My adventure in St. Petersburg has finally started and I am an official international traveler.  I have finally been subjected to long flights, airplane food, transfers, and passport control.  It may have been long, but the plane rides were worth it because I have received the first stamp in my passport.  Navigating through four airports and not losing my luggage, I was already proud of myself.  Then, I walked out into the sun of St. Petersburg.  I still cannot believe that I have made it to this city full of history and culture, a city just begging for me to explore.  Lucky enough for me, jet lag has taken its toll and I am slowly adjusting while doing my best to contain my enthusiasm.

The program coordinators have this thing down pat.  They completely realize that we have little energy but want to see the city we have committed ourselves to for 8 weeks.  In order to remedy our two conflicting interests, they scheduled a city bus tour to get some of the giddiness out of our systems.  It was a marvelous idea, because we all wanted to see the city. However, I have officially decided that bus tours are just a tease.  They drive you by beautiful buildings full of history that just scream “Come here!” and you are left with an increased desire to explore the city.  We drove past the Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood, the Mariinsky Theatre, and the Yusupov Palace.  I was lucky to catch a glimpse of the Winter Palace and the Peter and Paul Fortress.  Besides the places I already knew I wanted to see, a hundred others were added to my list during the drive.  Bus tours are like movie trailers, except they do not give away half the plot in two minutes.  Instead, you get one or two quick facts and are whisked around the corner to the next excitement.  All in all, my desire for exploration was nowhere near quenched, it was only amplified.  But that is alright, because it was just a tease.  The tour was a tease that finally gave me a glimpse of a city I have dreamed about, and for that I am grateful.